The Best Places To Visit In Michigan's Lower Peninsula
Van life has turned me into something of an honorary Michiganite. My maiden voyage involved a healthy tour of the southeast shore of Lake Michigan - complete with dune-riddled state parks and adorable beach towns. And just recently, while driving west to the Rocky Mountains, I made an incredibly inefficient but immensely rewarding tour of the northeast shore of that same Great Lake (followed by an Upper Peninsula adventure). Allow me the creative liberty to merge the two trips into one epic, northbound adventure so that you, dear reader, can bask vicariously in the beauty of Michigan's Lower Peninsula. I can't touch on every amazing place (just some of my personal favorites), but I'll do my best to leave food for thought for future road trips (of which there most certainly will be).
Warren Dunes State Park
Enormous sand dunes (some as tall as 260 feet) are the marquee attraction of this 1,9520-acre state park in Michigan's southwest corner. Of course, the three-mile long, sandy Lake Michigan beach also does its fair share to draw those summer crowds. I first laid eyes on Warren Dunes State Park in April, so I was a bit early for swimming season (though the sunny skies did tempt me). But heaving myself up the dunes, sprinting back down, and then perusing some of the six-miles worth of mixed-terrain trails kept me plenty occupied. I could tell by the size of the parking lots (empty as they were at that time) that peak season is an exciting time for this humble preserve. As such, I would recommend booking ahead if you're hoping to make a weekend of it at one of the two on-site campgrounds (or any of the surrounding private ones).
Food for Thought: If you find yourself enjoying the atmosphere at Warren Dunes State Park but want to switch things up and/or dodge the crowds, head 30 minutes south across state lines to Indiana Dunes State Park (or the encompassing national park).
South Haven
A mere 45 miles northeast of Warren Dunes, my first Michigan beachtown love emerged. South Haven marries two splendid beaches (which are divided by a walkable pier topped with a quintessential red lighthouse) with a shopping-friendly downtown core and an authentic Old Harbor Village. This Van Buren County beauty is great for sunbathing, boating, sipping on some home-brewed suds, or simply poking your head into the independent coffee shops and retail stores spread evenly throughout its modest footprint. If you catch an off-day in terms of weather, consider visiting the Michigan Maritime Museum (which also offers sailings on its historic tall ship, weather permitting), or catching a flick at the Michigan Theater (just look for the iconic matinee or large mural painted on its south side).
Food for Thought: Van Buren State Park sits immediately south of South Haven, and got the thumbs up from the locals.
Saugatuck/Douglas
A hop, skip, and jump away from South Haven (i.e., 20 miles north), the small and colorful sister cities of Allegan County await. Saugatuck and Douglas go together like PB and J (for you kiddos) or a craft logger on a sunny patio (for you like-minded mature travelers). In fact, other than a brief interruption by the Kalamazoo River, these artsy enclaves feel like the same place. Both deliver decorated downtown strips that participate in the "Social District," meaning that food/drinks can be purchased at one participating business and brought to the common area of another (ex. if you're waiting on a table somewhere and want a pint in the meantime). Many retailers also allow for Social District beverages (if they're in the labeled container) to be carried around while shopping. Continuing the parallels, both communities claim Lake Michigan beaches (Douglas and Oval), as well as Kalamazoo Lake parks, and both Saugatuck and Douglas are overtly welcoming to LGBTQ+ people (if that's your thing).
Food for Thought: Saugatuck Dunes State Park rests immediately north of the titular town and boasts more beaches, dunes, and forested trails.
Holland
The last major stop on the first leg of my Lower Peninsula/Lake Michigan journey was to the aptly-named Dutch settlement. The state's propensity for attractive downtowns is further cemented in Holland. Here, brick-lined buildings/sidewalks are complemented by countless beds of tulips (for all you springtime visitors, at least). The breweries, coffee shops, galleries, and restaurants that fill the spaces in between are nothing to sneeze at, either. From 7th and 8th Street, one can head west to the South Pierhead (once again marked by a red lighthouse), Ottawa Beach, and Holland State Park, or east to Windmill Island Gardens, with its historic windmill, seasonal tulip gardens, heritage buildings, and authentically-clad guides. Holland merges the best aspects of Michigan with the delightfully exotic elements of its European motherland.
Empire
Empire is a small village on the northwest shoulder of the Lower Peninsula before it starts funneling towards the Lake Huron and Upper Peninsula transition points. It is also the southern gateway to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Shoreline (i.e., an absolute must-see natural/cultural attraction of the Lower Peninsula and our next stop on this list). It, therefore, only makes sense to begin a humble Empire tour with a trip to the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center. The enthusiastic staff will fix you up with the necessary maps, passes, and tips. The next order of business is to stroll the streets of the seemingly-sleepy but actually quite lively streets. Check out the anachronistic Town Hall, the Sleeping Bear Gallery, and Nature Walk Studio (which nestle up against one another), or the Secret Garden Gallery, just down the way; the quirky Miser's Hoard Antiques, and onwards to the local surf shop, cafe, tavern, etc.
As alluded to by my feature photo, one of the town's best features is the Empire Bluff Trail. Participants embark on an undulating quest through the woods before a panoramic view of the Great Lake and the dramatic shoreline to come is unveiled. This was the first suggestion offered by the National Park Service employees - and it was a damn fine one.
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore preserves 71,000 acres of dunes, lakes, forests, wetlands, and other natural habitats along a 65-mile stretch of pristine Lake Michigan shoreline. It also encompasses the two Manitou Islands (which feature prominently in the local Indigenous lore) and 26 inland lakes. This area stacks perfectly on top of the previously-mentioned sand dunes of western Michigan - the largest freshwater dune system, in fact, in the 海角社区. Call me crazy, but when I see a big old sand dune, I feel compelled to climb it. The Dune Climb, therefore, was tailor-made for me. My girlfriend and I left our shoes in the parking lot (though this is not recommended on a hot day) and grunted our way up the 284-foot juggernaut. The backside views were incredible and made all the more compelling by an incoming storm (which we just barely beat back to the car).
Other notable highlights along this federally-protected shoreline included the 7.4-mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive (it was being repaved when we rolled through), the 100+ miles of trails (including Sleeping Bear Point, after which the place is named), and the historic sites (including the Coast Guard Station Maritime Museum and Glen Haven Village). Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is open year-round, and I'm told that the winter recreation is top-notch.
Food for Thought: Leland operates ferries to North and South Manitou Island (i.e. the sleeping bear's two cubs), both of which serve as undeveloped (save for some hiking trails and campsites) nature havens. The south island even harbors a small collection of old-growth (i.e., 400-500-year-old) cedars.
Traverse City
While traversing from Sleeping Bear to the last of our northern Lower Peninsula stops, it is practically mandatory to stop at Traverse City. Situated at the base of the Grand Traverse Bay (West Arm), TC feels isolated and unique. It sports four main tourist districts: Front Street, Warehouse, Old Town, and Waterfront. Front Street checks the (now-expected) charming downtown box. The Warehouse District took note of hipsters when it converted old industrial buildings into artisanal mall clusters, candle shops, and breweries. The Old Town, as you might guess, enshrines the Traverse City of yesteryear. And the waterfront speaks for itself (just don't glue yourself to the bay all day, for the Boardman River hides little marinas, walking paths, and parks).
Charlevoix
A little over an hour north of Traverse City, back on the shore of Lake Michigan (as well as Lake Charlevoix), Charlevoix has a few tricks up its sleeve. Irina and I arrived just in time for the Thursday Farmers Market. Organic produce, hippie soaps, and a skilled musician (for good measure) all lined Bridge Street - where it meets East Park and the Charlevoix Marina. After a little scouting mission, we grabbed a cup of joe at Hardwood Gold and then proceeded to investigate the commercial alleys that branch off the main drag. Next, on our way over to Michigan Beach Park, we made sure to marvel at the eclectic creations (i.e., "Mushroom Houses") of architect Earl Young throughout the eponymous historic district.
Petoskey State Park
Michigan has 103 state parks. So choosing a handful to visit on any given road trip is a tall order. The randomness of van life brought Irina and I to Petoskey State Park - an overlooked and underrated spot, from what I could gather. Petoskey isn't the biggest park around, or even the prettiest, but for those disinterested in sprinting up sand dunes, or fighting for a spot on a populated beach, it will be right up your alley. The staff was amiable, the campground was tidy, and there were several cute boardwalks leading to a perfectly-imperfect beach. I got to know some of the regulars while watching the sun set between hearty lake clouds. If there's one thing my extended road trips through The Great Lake State have taught me, it's that nature-seeking Michiginites are universally friendly.
Food for Thought: Even the Petoskey park rangers insisted that we visit nearby Wilderness State Park. At 10,500 acres, it will need its own trip (and article).
Parting Thoughts
Michigan's Lower Peninsula, particularly the Lake Michigan shoreline, is as attractive as it is entertaining. The sprawling, dune-lined beaches are the main magnets (especially come summer), but the well-stocked and personable towns along the way clinch the deal. Ironically, the one place in the Great Lakes Region that can rival this stretch is the wild and wondrous Upper Peninsula, which I'd love to tell you about next!
