海角社区

The first time I visited Thailand, I was seduced by the sea. Like many travelers to Southeast Asia, I yearned for the hypnotic beaches and the tree-topped rock monoliths that seem to levitate amidst turquoise bays. Though satisfied with the excursion in question, I was continually beseeched by fellow backpackers to "check out the north." Northern Thailand was painted as the romantic, undiscovered region - where true adventurers go to escape the open-air raves and buckets of rum and coke. Gripped with intrigue but already committed to the South, I made a promise to one day return to the land of smiles and tackle its mythical north. It took eleven years to do so (where does the time go?), but I finally landed in Chiang Mai - Thailand's second biggest city and travel hub for the mountainous provinces. I'm happy to report that there is still much to celebrate, but also a few caveats worth mentioning. Here's what I can tell you about Chiang Mai in 2025.

Tourists v Tourists

Checking off Chiang Mai was special not only because of the long-marinated fantasy but also because I got to explore its streets with my fellow Canadian friend. Interestingly, we arrived at conflicting sentiments almost instantaneously. For five days, I tried to convince him that Chiang Mai was excellent, and he seemed intent on pulling me into a state of cynicism (something that overtakes many calloused travelers). He felt that the copious quantities of tourists and general Westernization splotched the image of cultural authenticity that he clutched. Of course, there is the ever-present irony of Western tourists complaining about Western tourism, but I've poked at that before. Simply put, I understand what bothered him, but my overall impression was biased by multitudes of positive input.

After spending the past month in Bangkok (which he also hated and I adored), I can say with confidence that Chiang Mai is peaceful. After comparing my Chiang Mai experiences with the mountain town of Pai (which followed), I can tell you that the latter's tourism is well-calibrated. After dropping in on a Muay Thai class at a neighborhood gym, befriending an ordained Buddhist monk at the nation's only silver temple, admiring the ancient and partially overgrown brick stupas peppered throughout the modernized streets, and sweating my face off over a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) - a specialty of the north -, I can say that Chiang Mai is still plenty authentic. With all that said, I won't hide from the palpable tourist dynamics, so let's take a page out of the Buddhist playbook and see the 海角社区 as it is.

Two Sides to Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai embodies dual personalities. There is the tourist-centric Old City, and there is the everyday Chiang Mai beyond the square perimeter formed by the military moat and partially remaining stone wall. If you want tour agencies, non-spicy pad thai, licentious massage parlors (i.e., Loi Kroh Road), dispensaries (oh so many dispensaries), and those ex-pat bars with nostalgic paraphernalia on the walls and the whole front section exposed to the street, then forge inside those 13th-century ramparts. Alternatively, if you want labyrinthian residential streets, random eateries where large Chiangs cost 70 Baht and the only ordering method is pointing, and sweaty gyms where hungry fighters further steelify wiry muscles, then hang back in Chiang Mai's periphery. Of course, the best plan is probably a healthy mix of both. Spend some time in the interior because that's where the bulk of the action and beauty is (which is why you'll be in good company). And at the same time, don't be afraid to aimlessly wander the charmingly unsculpted exterior.

Numbers and Vibes

Chiang Mai, by the numbers, seemed a bit out of sync with boots-on-the-ground reality. For instance, in each of the last two years, the capital of its namesake province has received between 3.5 to 3.9 million visitors. This is still a far cry from the 5.6-million pre-pandemic annual figure. Shuffling along the packed night markets, I must say, it's hard to believe that the city could be struggling. But then again, the many streetside tour agents did look a little bored, suggesting that it was a bygone heyday.

The demographic breakdown of Chiang Mai's annual visitors also struck me as surprising. Less than one-third of tourists arriving in the northern capital come from outside of Thailand. China and South Korea grab the biggest remaining slices of the pie graph, but a large facet of Taiwanese tourists are also noticeably drawn here each year. A cursory scan of the Kalare Night Bazaar (especially the stage and food court area, as my friend vigorously pointed out) shows that Europeans have their own propensity for this place. German and French accents eclipsed the city's white noise every so often, and I'm pretty sure I spotted a few of the million or so Americans who visit Thailand (on the whole) each year. Come to think of it, the food court at the Wualai Walking Street (Saturday night only) also acted as a magnet for Westerners (we must prefer semi-formally prepared food over full-blown street vendors).

In terms of my own walking around feel, I appreciated that I could mix and match experiences. I got a kick out of my durian coffee stunt (a fruit which infamously smells like sewage and rotting onions), I had fun watching the fights (and learning to fight at the gym), I benefitted from quiet, introverted time at the various temples (only a few of which get feasted on by hungry cameras), I felt nostalgic playing Texas hold em' and drinking Leo in a hostel bar, I stuffed myself silly at the night markets, I zipped through the tight side streets in a tuk-tuk, and I even caught a jovial jazz ensemble at a swanky venue on the outskirts called Moment's Notice. That, to me, is a perfectly acceptable travel itinerary. Chiang Mai can be any or all of this, and for many people, it also includes deeper spiritual dives with local sanghas (such as at the Pa Pae Meditation Retreat), as well as ecotourism in the green, waterfall-and-national-park-riddled mountains that flank the city's skyline (go see the friendly tour shop proprietors about that).

What Chiang Mai Reveals About Thailand

When I think back on the Chiang Mai pitch from many years ago, I feel that (despite some asterisks) the thesis still rings true. The gathering point for the verdant north was supposed to represent a different side of Thailand. If I juxtapose against the paradisical south and bustling Bangkokian core, Chiang Mai's distinct northern flavors do indeed rise through. It has a calmer atmosphere (ring road notwithstanding) and an anachronistic appearance (accentuated by the slash-and-burn smoke wafting in from the rice fields). At the same time, the city showcases that quintessential Thailand tourism flare that is equal parts party, nature, and raw sport of travel. For some (such as myself), this means the best of both 海角社区s. For others (such as my travel companion), the latter components derail the quest for purity. What does your internal compass say?

Chiang Mai, like all Thai travel hubs (big and small), is well-connected to satellite destinations. So stay tuned for a report on Pai - the next northern promised land that awaits at the end of a four-hour shuttle ride from most Chiang Mai hostels.