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Austin, Texas: the name alone is energizing and polarizing, like all popular things. To some, it is the new(ish) promised land. For others, it's like that indie band that was cool in the 90s but has long since sold out. Either way, there is a lot of buzz around the capital of Texas. As a result, along with the mass migration of residents (both into and out of the city), there is a steady influx of curious tourists. I myself had been itching to get to Austin ever since I saw its bohemian side depicted in Richard Linklater films such as Slacker, Dazed and Confused, and Waking Life, and I couldn't help but notice the air of possibility it emanated during the pandemic era. As I write this from one of those hip coffee shops just off Sixth Street, I have to ask myself: Is Austin worth the hype?

Part 1. Is Austin on the Rise or Fizzling Out?

Austin has been steadily growing in population (i.e., typically doubling in size every 20 to 25 years) since, well, when it was founded in 1839. So much so that it went from being a middle-of-the-pack city to the nation's 10th most populous in only a handful of decades. A competitive housing market during the post-2020 shake-ups, a comparatively viable business landscape, a creative haven for musicians, comedians, artists, and the like, a blue enclave within a red state, and all sorts of different magnets have attracted people to the south, typically from the coasts (and particularly from California and Florida). With that said, 2023 saw Austin drop out of the top ten (Jacksonville, Florida, now claims that honor), and just recently, it registered 5th on the list of American cities that people are most moving out of.

On the other hand, Austin's tourism scene is going strong. Known (for good reason) as the "Live Music Capital of the º£½ÇÉçÇø" and now the "Comedy Capital of the º£½ÇÉçÇø," its nightlife is tough to rival. Throw in an enticing culinary scene, a robust visual arts scene, º£½ÇÉçÇø-class sporting events, welcomed college-town vibes, and one of the most iconic capitol buildings in the country, and it's easy to see why so many people want to check this place out.

Objective figures substantiate Austin's status as a cultural magnet. Something in the neighborhood of 30 million visitors flies and drives into town annually, ranking it as one of the nation's most significant tourist draws. Recent traffic at the Austin-Bergstrom International Airport and relevant annual tax revenues have also been breaking all-time records.

So what's the deal? Is Austin on the rise or fizzling out? Well, like just about any topic these days, it depends on which data points you want to include and when you wish to summon the jury. It will undoubtedly remain one of the largest cities in the United States for many years to come. Still, as for its minor 2024 exodus, perhaps a (forthcoming) five-year trend is needed to properly assess the flow direction. Casual visitors, however, still appear as enthusiastic as ever. So, let's hone in on the tourist side of this eclectic city.

Part 2. Experiencing Austin as a Tourist

The Good

The entertainment side of Austin is very much worth the hype. Good tunes and yuk-yuks reverberate from all corners of Sixth Street, especially at night, even early in the week. My girlfriend and I both had Joe Rogan's Comedy Mothership as our most-anticipated attraction. We were able to snag Wednesday night tickets for the Little Boy (i.e. a more intimate room with many short sets), and the Fat Man (i.e. the larger theater that boasts headline-style performances). Both shows sold out, which still appears to be a common occurrence over a year-and-a-half after the stand-up venue opened its doors from within the historic Ritz theater. The lineup was a blend of hidden gems and mega-stars, a perfect combination that left me laughing harder than I ever have in my life. Walking back onto Sixth at 1 AM was a surreal experience. The lights, the music, the crowds (again, this was all on a Wednesday night, mind you): that's what being a tourist in Austin is all about.

First example aside, I'm actually not much of a night owl. In fact, going downtown to catch a late show was very much a special occasion. So, I was pleased to see that Austin also has a healthy daytime appeal. Case in point, the pathways on both sides of the Colorado River (which bisects central Austin into the northern and southern hemispheres) are exceptional. Whether it's first thing in the morning or in the afterglow of sunset, joggers, dog walkers, and cyclists pack the boardwalks and crushed gravel footpaths. Pedestrians also line the hillsides and bridges to appreciate the beauty of Austin's expanding skyline and watch the various paddlers and boaters float by. It's a great vibe down there, so consider taking the scenic route to/from some of the city's more commercial attractions.

Another one-two daytime punch that turned my crank was visiting the 19th-century Texas Capitol building, followed by a casual tour of the Blanton Museum of Art. The arresting granite/marble structure of the former calls all the way down Congress Avenue to the aforementioned river, while the latter acts as the quirky focal point for the Museum District, which sits conveniently behind the capitol. In two hours, I got an appreciation for Austin's athletic side, its proud and rebellious history, and its flair for the fringe. After an unforgettable night on the town, that afternoon made me one satiated tourist. But I'd be lying if I didn't cite some of Austin's faults...

The Ummm, Not-So-Good

To be honest, my first impression of Austin was rough. Getting a ride down from Georgetown showed me how congested traffic has become. I'm sure it pales compared to that of major coastal cities, but even at noon on a Monday, I-35 was stop-and-go. Then, stepping out onto the corner of Parker Lane and E Oltorf Street, an unsettling presence awaited. Simply put, Austin is sketchy. At least, it is in certain areas. Yes, this is a problem across the board, particularly in major cities and in my experience (for whatever reason), particularly within progressive ones. Austin is just another dot on that disappointing graph.

Prospective visitors will want to prepare themselves for areas of pronounced homelessness and debilitating drug addiction, as well as the inevitable sanitary issues and confrontations that come with the territory. As a budget traveler, my Airbnb location may not reflect the experience of past and future Austin tourists, but if my Sixth Street pitch resonated with you, then you will certainly feel it there. I'm not here to judge, but casual visitors tend to be less invested in complex root causes as they are self-preservation. Clearly, this dynamic has negatively impacted Old Sixth Street (i.e., the east end), and if things continue as they are, I wouldn't be surprised to see other downtown businesses suffer through seasons to come.

Finally, Austin is expensive. I didn't expect otherwise, but let's just say I wasn't pleasantly surprised. Tickets are pricey, food and drinks will make a dent, and the nightly cost for a hotel—well… it might lead you to a shared accommodation near the corner of Parker and East Oltorf.

Parting Thoughts

With a motto like "Keep Austin Weird," it makes sense that this city would present a mixed bag. The political, cultural, and geographic (sort of) epicenter of Texas is radiant but grungy and fun but taxing. All things considered, I'm glad I finally dropped by, and yes, I look forward to coming back. I want to see more shows, tour more museums, drink more craft kombucha, and click off more miles on the urban trails. But I'll also carry some lessons forward from this week-long visit and use them to tweak future itineraries. I know "Austin isn't what it used to be," but that's what everyone says about everywhere. In my view, it's still a really cool place to visit. And yeah, overall, worth the hype.